Cable Runner Socks

GAUGE:  11 rows & 8 sttiches in 1 inch.

These socks where designed using the magic loop method. Also for you to be able to use whatever toe and heel you would like to use. They can be top down or toe up. The only difference on that is the way the cables end up running.

For the picture I did toe up with an after thought heel. I will write out the toe pattern I used. The heel you will have to decide for yourself but I will provide a link to the after thought heel pattern I used.

This pattern can be made with one color – or more then two. I designed it with two colors but I wrote it for one color. The color changes are: white is the toe, heel, and cuff while blue is the foot and leg.

NOTE ABOUT ARRANGING STITCHES: 

Since I designed this for magic loop the stitches will be arranged 36 stitches on each needle. The stitches I designate as the top stitches will be the top of the foot where the design will be worked. The stitches I designate for the bottom will be the bottom of the foot with no design worked as well as these being the stitches you will work the heel on. After the heel stitches are prepared for the after thought heel (or whatever heel you use) the stitches will all be combined into the leg and cuff. The design will then be worked on both top and bottom needle stitches.

MATERIALS NEEDED:

approx. 100g of sock yarn
size US2 circular knitting needles – the longer the cable the better when working with magic loop
stitch markers
tapestery needle

Stitches Used:

Buy the PDF and add this to your Ravelry queue at https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cable-runner-socks

Buy the PDF without logging into Ravelry at http://www.ravelry.com/purchase/crochetjessica/515680

Toe Pattern

Using Judy's Magic Cast On cast on 10 sts to each needle 20 sts total

Round 1: k each st this is the round she shows after casting on the sts

Round 2: on each needle * K1, M1, K each st until one before the last st, M1, K1, repeat from * on second needle.

Round 3: K all sts on both needles.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until each needle has 36 sts 72 sts total


Foot Pattern

You will be starting with NEEDLE1 which are the top stitches. The next needle will be NEEDLE2 which are the bottom stitches. Mark this however you want if needed. After Round 5 you will be able to tell which needle has which stitches without a marker.

Round 1: NEEDLE1; K2, [P2, K4] 5 times, P2, K2  NEEDLE2: K all sts

Round 2-4: Repeat Round 1

Round 5: NEEDLE1: K2, P2, C4F, [P2, K4] 3 times, P2, C4F, P2, K2  NEEDLE2: K all sts

Round 6-9: Repeat Round 1

Round 10: NEEDLE1: K2, P2, K4, P2, C4F, P2, K4, P2, C4F, P2, K4, P2, K2  NEEDLE2: K all sts

Round 11-14: Repeat Round 1

Round 15: NEEDLE1: K2, [P2, K4] 2 times, P2, C4F, P2, [P2, K4] 2 times, P2, K2  NEEDLE2: K all sts

Repeat Round 1-15 to the point you want to add the heel.

The Heel - Preparing for the Afterthought Heel.

Once you have gotten the foot of your sock to the desired length it is time to add the heel. Here is what I did to add the after thought heel.

NEEDLE1: Work pattern as normal. Keep note what row you just did.

NEEDLE2: Do whatever is needed to be able to do the after thought heel. The row before and after the stitches you added for the heel I placed waste yarn in so it will be easier for me to put those stitches on the needles when I am adding the heels.

After these 2 steps are done you will be ready to start work on the leg part of your sock.

Leg Pattern

You will be working the design on both needles though they will still be NEEDLE1 and NEEDLE2. I will restart the pattern from Round 1. If this is not where you added the heel on start from the Round after you did the heel – EXAMPLE: you added the heel on round 10 so the cuff would start at Round 11.

Chart for this is at the end of the pattern!

Round 1: NEEDLE1: K2, [P2, K4] 5 times, P2, K2 NEEDLE2: K all sts

Round 2-4: Repeat Round 1

You knit these sts on NEEDLE2 for rnds 1-4 THE FIRST REPEAT to help add positive ease. Do this wherever you started the cuff. It does make a difference.

Round 5: NEEDLE1: K2, P2, C4F, [P2, K4] 3 times, P2, C4F, P2, K2  NEEDLE2: K2, P2, C4F, [P2, K4] 3 times, P2, C4F, P2, K2

Round 6: NEEDLE1: K2, [P2, K4] 5 times, P2, K2 NEEDLE2: K2, [P2, K4] 5 times, P2, K2

Round 7-9: Repeat Round 6

Round 10: NEEDLE1: K2, P2, K4, P2, C4F, P2, K4, P2, C4F, P2, K4, P2, K2 NEEDLE2: K2, P2, K4, P2, C4F, P2, K4, P2, C4F, P2, K4, P2, K2

Round 11-14: Repeat Round 6

Round 15: NEEDLE1: K2, [P2, K4] 2 times, P2, C4F, P2, [P2, K4] 2 times, P2, K2 NEEDLE2: K2, [P2, K4] 2 times, P2, C4F, P2, [P2, K4] 2 times, P2, K2

Repeat Round 1-15 to the point you want to add the cuff ending with round 4, 9, or 14.

Cuff Pattern

Round 1: NEEDLE1; K2, [P2, K4] 5 times, P2, K2  NEEDLE2: K2, [P2, K4] 5 times, P2, K2

Round 2-6: Repeat Round 1.

Round 7: K all stitches on both needles if you find that your cast off stitches tend to be tight. If they aren't just repeat Round 1.

Bind Off: Use Jenny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off. I have found this is the only bind off that work for toe up socks that isn't tight.

Finally Adding The Heel

At this point all you have to do is add your heel if you chose not to work it before.  I did this & did the after thought heel.  This is the time to add the after thought heel - or your heel of choice.  https://www.dummies.com/crafts/knitting/knitting-projects/how-to-knit-an-afterthought-heel/

Pattern Chart

Extra Photos

Close up of cables

Another view of completed socks.

©Jessica Phillips crochetjessica.com